Four Days Through the Hidden Soul of Nayarit

When people think of Nayarit, their minds usually jump straight to the beaches of the Riviera. However, this state hides a tropical and historic soul that only reveals itself when you venture onto its roads. Recently, Alejandro and I (Moisés) decided to put together a four-day trip to show this fascinating side to our great friends, Joel and Sariah. Our mission? To design a route connecting the lushness of the western coast with the region's historical and industrial legacy, without missing out on the local cuisine.

Here is the chronicle of an unforgettable adventure.

Day 1

We started early. We met up with Joel and Sariah in Puerto Vallarta and headed north. Before reaching our first destination, we made a mandatory pit stop for some local empanadas. Alejandro always says they make the best bean-and-chorizo empanadas around, and boy, was he right. Sariah loved them; she tried both the sweet and savory options and couldn't decide on a favorite.

With that great taste in our mouths, we continued toward La Peñita and Los Ayala, where we were lucky enough to witness something that goes unnoticed by many: the opening of a jackfruit (yaca). Anyone who has dealt with this fruit knows it is a true art form; its resin is so sticky that opening it requires skill, patience, and technique—a perfect example of rural craftsmanship.

Moving along the coast, we stopped at the Chacala viewpoint, located right next to an extinct volcano, which treated us to a beautiful panoramic view of the coastal town. But the heat was picking up and our bodies were calling for water, so we detoured into the mountains toward the town of El Cora.

To reach its famous 130-foot (40-meter) waterfall, we drove through massive Ataulfo mango orchards. It was peak season, so we couldn't resist the temptation to pick some mangoes straight from the trees. Few things compare to biting into a fresh, juicy mango ripened by the sun under the shade of the trees. Joel and Sariah thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of El Cora’s refreshing natural pool, where, of course, we took a swim.

Before night fell, we made a strategic stop at the Matanchén pier. There, the four of us watched one of those deep, golden sunsets that only the Mexican Pacific can deliver—the perfect prelude to reaching our base: the historic port of San Blas.

After checking in, we went out for a walk to soak in the nighttime atmosphere. The culinary debut of the evening was at a local taco stand. Along with the classic asada and adobada tacos, we introduced our friends to a well-kept secret of the region: tacos de panela (grilled panela cheese). It’s a delicacy rarely seen in the rest of the country, or even within the state itself, but that crispy texture of the tortilla on the outside and the soft cheese on the inside left us ready to get some rest.

Day 2

The second day was defined by contrasts: the heavy stone of history and the fluid movement of the mangroves. In the morning, we went up to the Cerro de la Contaduría (the former Fort of San Basilio). From this imposing colonial stone fortress, we explained the massive importance of San Blas in New Spain (one of the major viceroyalties of the Spanish Empire).

We told them how this fort protected the Manila Galleons (Nao de China)—which returned loaded with spices and fine fabrics—from pirate attacks along the coast. The site was also key during the War of Independence; the insurgent leader José María Mercado, commissioned by Miguel Hidalgo himself, took this bastion to direct the liberation strategies for the region. To complete the historical atmosphere, we observed the petroglyphs in the area, silent witnesses to the pre-Hispanic cultures that inhabited this strategic point long before the arrival of the Spaniards.

Heading back down to the town center, we visited the iconic San Blas Parish—seeing both the old structure from where Friar Junípero Serra departed to establish the missions in the Californias, and the more modern church—and walked along the old pier.

All that walking worked up our appetite. We sat down at a local restaurant to enjoy the king of Nayarit cuisine: a majestic Marlin zarandeado (butterflied marlin grilled over charcoal with a signature smoky adobo marinade), paired with freshly opened, cool coconut water.

The Whisper of the Mangrove: La Tovara and Kiekari

With our energy restored, we headed to La Tovara. We boarded a boat and ventured through the natural channels and tunnels formed by the roots of different mangrove species. The ecosystem was alive: we saw turtles, storks, herons, and crocodiles in their natural habitat.

We stopped at Kiekari, an admirable wildlife conservation center managed communitably by the Ejido La Palma since 1985. Their work rescuing and rehabilitating wildlife is truly beautiful. There, we saw coatismundis, peccaries, pheasants, military macaws, and the majestic jaguar. The tour ended where the water flows from the source: the La Tovara spring, where we took the opportunity to swim in its crystal-clear waters.

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Back at the car, we bought the classic San Blas banana bread and headed toward Mecatán, a small town nestled between the coast and Tepic. We went straight to El Mamey, a natural water park with a series of pools and waterfalls surrounded by plantations of banana, lychee, rambutan, and jackfruit.

While walking through the town of Mecatán, we experienced a wonderful glimpse of rural Mexican life that took us by surprise. Suddenly, massive community loudspeakers shattered the town's quiet with a loud announcement.

For context for our readers from outside Mexico: In many rural communities across the country, long before smartphones or social media existed, these megaphones were installed in main squares or on central poles. Today, they are still used as the "town newspaper" to share community announcements, sell products, or broadcast urgent news.

On this occasion, the voice over the loudspeaker was announcing that the following day there would be a purchase of large Ataulfo mangoes weighing over 200 grams. It was an authentic slice of daily life that made us smile. With that great experience, we returned to San Blas to rest.

Day 3

On the third day, we slowed down a bit in the morning to recharge, but by mid-morning, we were on our way to Bellavista. Here, the chronicle took a complete turn to dive into the history of industrialization in Mexico during the late 19th century.

We visited the massive former textile factory of Bellavista. Although the history within its walls is heavy—marked by severe labor exploitation—it stands as a monument to human dignity. We explained to our friends that here, in 1905, the first modern labor strike in Mexico took place, serving as a direct precursor to historic movements like those in Cananea and Río Blanco. We toured the machine room and the impressive turbine room, which was powered by the force of the Mololoa River. It was fascinating to discover the Porfirian-era architecture and the presence of remnants of a Masonic temple, a group that undeniably shaped the future of the nation.

To process all that history, we sat down for lunch at Los Telares de Bellavista restaurant—a fantastic culinary choice—before heading toward the state capital.

Upon arriving in Tepic, we checked into the iconic Hotel Fray Junípero Serra, located right next to the historic Bola de Oro portal. This was one of the first luxury hotels in the country, hosting high-profile families, politicians, and diplomats on their way to the port of San Blas. Today, completely modernized, it features a terrace with spectacular views. From there, we admired the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the Church of San José, the Ciudad de las artes indigenas, and the imposing Tepic Cathedral. We wrapped up the day with a evening stroll through the historic center to get a feel for the city's pulse.

Day 4

Our last day began with the hotel breakfast, which is absolutely delicious, followed by a visit to the Government Palace. This building, which now houses the state executive offices, originally served as a penitentiary on what used to be the outskirts of the city. What truly captivated us were the majestic murals inside, which we studied closely as they visually narrate the history of Nayarit and Mexico. Plus, the view from the second floor looking toward the imposing Sanganguey Volcano is spectacular.

Next, we walked to the Casa de las Cinco Culturas (the old British consulate). Here, we shared a beautiful exhibition about the Wixárika (Huichol) people with our friends. We took our time admiring the incredible detail in the beadwork and yarn art, the photography, and the representation of a marakame (shaman) with his sacred offerings, along with a replica of a traditional community hut. It was a deeply respectful immersion into their worldview.

From there, we visited the Emilia Ortiz Cultural Center, a modern art museum showcasing contemporary local talent, while also preserving historic rooms belonging to the Aguirre family (the former owners of the Bellavista factory we had visited the day before).

Our final stop in Tepic was the Ciudad de las artes indigenas. We were lucky enough to chat directly with local artisans, and on a personal note, I (Moisés) couldn't resist buying a shirt handmade by a Na'yeri (Cora) artisan—a piece I wear with a lot of pride.

The Perfect Finale in a Colonial Town

We started our drive back south, but the trip wouldn't be complete without a stop in Compostela, a small city that was a cornerstone during Mexico's colonial era. To wrap up the journey the right way, we went straight to the local market. We treated ourselves to a feast that included everything from a rich, perfect traditional mole to pipián (pumpkin seed sauce) and enchiladas that showcase the very best of Mexican culinary art.

With full stomachs and happy hearts, we drove back through the mountains toward Puerto Vallarta. It was four intense days of learning, laughter, and discovery. For Alejandro and me, it was a true honor to show Joel and Sariah these incredibly special places, proving once again that the best journeys are always shared over history and great food with good friends.